It's early May, and here we sit aboard NOMADESS, our newly acquired cutter, in English Harbor, Antigua. Our FBYC Burgee snapping in the stiff easterlies that inhabit these low latitudes. We are asking ourselves the age-old question, "how did we get here this time?" I guess the bug bit again at the Ft. Lauderdale International boat show in October. Click Read More… for the full story of our year of cruising in the Bahamas, Virgin Islands, and Caribbean.

After years of racing EAGERNESS on the bay, and hours of trolling for anything that might bite aboard EAGER TOO, we were torn between a long-range motor cruiser or an around the world sailing vessel. For three years or so we canvassed the boat show circuit and found nothing. That was up until we found NOMADESS!! Surrounded by giant motor yachts, the beautiful blue-hulled sloop was gleaming in the Florida sun. Up the stairs and on board we went. On deck she had the look of a maxi racer but soft touches of comfort showed through her rugged exterior. Below we were in heaven, a beautiful warm teak interior accented by bright colors and light, light, light. She had hatches, prisms, hull window, cockpit windows, nothing but light. WOW! She was perfect! The best news yet was that her refit was not complete, so we would be able to customize her for the extensive world cruising that began running through my mind. Best of all, a new project always makes retirement more fun. Off to the yard we went..

The refit was as much of an adventure as the sailing to which we were looking forward. The survey had produced a number of pages of minor defects we had to take care of, but the rest of the slate was clear for us to do with what we wished. We ended up upgrading the communications gear to include SSB, and a sat com unit. We also added a large marinized computer system for charting, email, and weather routing. The addition of a washer/dryer led to the installation of a 750-gallon per day water maker to the boat. Perhaps this is overkill but what a treat when on a passage. The rest was mostly interior redecorating, with which Arelene did a marvelous job.

The planning began. Friends were called, passports were updated, and before we knew it a departure date arrived. On February 20th, the weather looked favorable with a predicted shift to the Northeast to help us on our way to Nassau, from Duck Key, Florida. Of course, the shift never came, and on the nose it was all the way to Nassau. How the wind knows where you're going, I'll never know. At any rate, 32 hours later we arrived safe and sound at Paradise Island. We stayed at the new Atlantis Marina and resort which is quite breathtaking and well worth a visit. With it's towers, crowds, and waterfalls, however, it was not the deserted tropical island for which we were searching. After a three day wait as a howling cold front worked its way through, we headed further south for the Exumas. Our first anchorage was Highbourne Cay. This is a beautiful island, and the dinghy ride to Allens Cay to visit the large protected population of Iguanas was a real hit. From Highbourne we crossed the yellow bank in to Exuma Sound for the passage to Staniel Cay where we planned to stop for two days. As it happens, two days is not enough for Staniel Cay and its surrounding islands, passages, and nooks and crannies. We took some time out here to learn how to use a hookah diving system by Brownies which lets four of us dive to 90 feet without the encumbrance of tanks and other equipment. The people of Staniel Cay yacht club could not be nicer, be it on the dock or in their fine restaurant. In fact, there are several restaurants that need to be mentioned. Club Thunderball had about the best lobster we found in the Bahamas. The Sampson Cay club is as remote as it is wonderful. The whole area is a must see.

Reluctantly, we left Rock Cay cut and Staniel Cay behind for Georgetown and the final leg for us in the Bahamas this year. Georgetown is the epicenter for sailors in the Bahamas. With a well organized cruiser net that helps keep track of the comings and goings of passagemakers, as well as updates on down island marinas and chart accuracy. As we made the run in to the sound a sea of masts greeted us. More masts than I had ever seen in one place. It seems we had arrived in the middle of the Seven Seas Cruising Associations' race week. An annual gathering with many events including the around Lee Stocking Island race, which is judged not only on handicapped corrected time, but also on the size and number of fish caught. What an event!! After two days in Georgetown, it was time for Arelene and me to depart with Jenni, our faithful boat dog (more about cruising with pets at a later date), back to Florida. Ed Collins and Theresa Healey, NOMADESS's full time crew would make the passage to the US Virgin Islands, where we would meet up with them in ten days time. After a quick 4 1/2 day delivery to St. Thomas and having repaired some leaky hatches, we found a gleaming NOMADESS waiting for us in Red Hook. We eagerly awaited the arrival of Arelene's daughter Sheryl and our three grandchildren from Colorado for a twelve day trip in the US and British Virgin Islands.

Theresa had planned a terrific schedule that included all the hot spots like Foxy's in Jost Van Dyke, the caves and the Indians at Norman Island for diving, Cooper Island just to relax and snorkel with the sea turtles, North Sound on Virgin Gorda for water sports at the Bitter End Yacht Club, and an exhilarating cab ride over the mountain to "the baths" to swim amongst the boulders. To top it all off, we sailed to Anegada, which is off the beaten path for most of the charter boats. This low, Bahamian like, island, boasts some of the most beautiful snorkeling reefs and beaches in the BVI. It also home to the best lobster barbecue in the Caribbean at the Anegada Reef Hotel. The beauty of the Virgin Islands, as well as the constant trade winds and sheltered waters make for a perfect spot for any sailor to lay a course. Our grandkids got to see it all on our whirlwind tour of the islands, so different from their Colorado home. We eagerly await their return aboard when school lets out this summer.

The drop off of the kids in Red Hook also coincided with the start of hostilities in Iraq. Flight jitters kept our cruising partners, Ann and Mack at home (they were aboard for the Bahamas leg). With April fast approaching the four of us, with Jenni of course, headed down island. Our next stop was St. Martin. After a tumultuous upwind crossing we arrived in Simpson Bay where we had planned a three-day layover to reprovision and make a few minor repairs. St. Martin has become the yachting center of the windward and leeward islands boasting the best marine stores and services to be found anywhere in the Caribbean. No wonder we were suddenly surrounded by gleaming mega yachts in for R&R. Motor yachts like the 311' LIMITLESS, and sailboats like the J-Boat VALSHEDA filled the docks of Simpson Bays seven modern marinas. Talk about boat shows, I'd like to know where the slow economy is. Not only is St. Martin a great place to reprovision, but also with the right guide it is quite charming. Places like Anse Marcel, Isle de Pinel, and the gastronomic delights of the Grand Casse and Marigot make it worth a stop.

Our next destination would be St. Barts for a planned two-day stop. After a glorious sail over, we realized upon entering the picturesque harbor of Gustavia that two days would not be enough here. The setting could not be more beautiful or the people more friendly. What a place to relax. Relax! Well it didn't quite work out like that. There is this thing called the St. Barts Bucket, which is an annual race for yachts over 100 feet. With the racing bug in the air, and Theresa and Ed being world-class racers, we were all snapped up as crew on ZINGARO, a 112' Derektor built beauty (also the second smallest boat in the fleet). The racing format was for two pursuit races. Saturday's race was around the island and Sunday's was a meander through the islands and coves on the east side of St. Barts. Saturday dawned clear and blustery with gusts to 28 knots. Perfect weather for these behemoths. First off was the beautiful 160' MARIETTE, a 1915 Schooner that is maintained to museum quality. Two more started before us, and then bang, off the line with a perfectly timed start. You would have thought we were all racing dinghies the way these 150 footers were crossing within feet of each other. What were truly amazing were the loads generated by these giants. One wrong move by any of the crew and something could break or someone could be seriously hurt. But the ZINGARO crew didn't make those mistakes and crossed the line for the win on day one. That night with the boats stern to on the Gustavia waterfront, it was the Chef's turn to show their stuff with an open house for all racing crew. Champagne flowed and hors d'ouvres were plentiful as we toured our competitor’s yachts. It was spectacular! Day two greeted us with more clear skies but a lot less wind, 10 to 12 knots. The start was downwind and ZINGARO got to the line a little early but managed not to cross too soon with some wild gyrations of the wheel. The spinnaker was set and off we went reaching at 12 knots, the same speed as the wind. As we were about to round Ile Foruche for the long beat up the back of St. Barts, our spinnaker halyard parted and roughly 1.5 acres of Spinnaker fell in to the sea. ZINGARO came to a screeching halt. It took 22 of the 26 crew to get it back aboard, including Arelene. Not only had we given the competitors an additional 15 minute lead, we had ripped the spinnaker badly. The whole crew jumped in to action, repairs were made and we continued to sail fast. By the time we rounded the top mark we were in fourth place, having gained back a couple of boats. The spinnaker was reset and the repairs held. With a few well timed gybes. We were back in third with VICTORIA and MARIETTE ahead. If MARIETTE were to win the race we would end up second for the regatta, but the wind gods smiled on us one more time and MARIETTE fell behind in the lightening breeze. We never caught VICTORIA, the new 134' Billy Langin design, but finished second, which was enough to win the bucket. Another amazing party was put on that night in true St. Barts style.

The next morning we slipped our mooring lines and bid adieu to St. Barts. The winds were perfect for a power reach all the way to St. Kitts. Usually people leave St. Martin or St. Barts and head straight for Antigua. This is a big mistake. Do not bypass St Kitts. It is truly a lovely island. The marina in Basseterre is brand new, having been rebuilt after hurricane Luis. Don't rent a car here; this is definitely a taxi tour sort of place because without a local guide you will miss the heart of this island. Founded on the once strong sugar cane industry, St. Kitts has tried, with some success, to reinvent itself. Long in history, some of St. Kitts "must sees" are the reconstructed fort at Brimstone hill, the Romney Manor located at the edge of the tropical rainforest, and the Rawlins and Ottley plantations. These are all great spots you won't find alone.

Our goal all along had been to get to Antigua. It was the first destination that popped in to my mind back in Ft. Lauderdale. Off we went from St. Kitts, around Nevis and across the top of Monserrat. I'll say this about the passage to Antigua; it's up hill all the way. 25 knots of breeze is just an average wind for Antigua and the surrounding islands, which NOMADESS loved more than we did. By midday we had made the turn in to English Harbor and were stern to at the historic Nelson's Dockyard. This is a special place for Arelene and me, as we did some of our early courting here over 20 years ago. The Copper and Lumber Store and Admirals Inn were old friends to us, and we were happy to see things had not changed much. For the next four weeks we had a whole series of friends and family in to join us for Easter and to just get away. Once again we were not safe from the race bug that bit one more time. We joined our friend from St. Barts. Randy West, aboard the 1946, 64' ketch LONE FOX for the Antigua Classic Regatta. That 50 of the most beautiful boats in the world can sail this far south and look like they've never seen a drop of saltwater will continue to amaze me the rest of my days. We were lucky enough to finish second overall with a mix of LONE FOX, TICONDEROGA, and NOMADESS crew. It doesn't matter who wins here, it's about the boats. You must come and see it just once. I'm only glad I escaped the week without being bitten by the wooden boat bug!!!

Anyhow, that's the wonderful meandering route that we took to end up here in Antigua. As I get ready to send this off to The Log, NOMADESS is leaving St. Thomas for Stove Point and should be arriving the 28th of May for a short visit. Then she is off for Northern Europe this summer, and back to the Caribbean next winter to see all the islands we missed. From there we will continue around the world for the next four years.

Please come and visit while she's here, if not we'll check in with The Log from time to time.

For now, fair winds and following seas.

John & Arelene McPherson

Ps: I hope they never invent a spray for the bug.